1. Prepare the Top Layer:1. Prepare the Top Layer: Mix cement, fine sand, iron oxide color pigment, and a concrete admixture in a pan mixer.

2. First Vibration: Pour this color mix into the rubber mould and place it on a vibrating table to remove all air bubbles.

3. Prepare the Base Layer: Mix standard concrete (cement, sand, and larger aggregates like 10mm stone chips).

4. Second Vibration: Pour the base concrete over the color layer and vibrate the mould again until the concrete is densely packed.

5. Curing: Stack the filled moulds, cover them with a plastic sheet or tarpaulin to lock in moisture, and let them set for 24 hours.

6. Demoulding: Because the rubber is flexible, you simply peel the mould away from the hardened block by hand.

If you want a glossy finish, less maintenance, and a long lifespan, rubber is better. Rubber flexes to absorb vibration and releases blocks easily without breaking their corners. Plastic (PVC/ABS) is cheaper upfront and lighter for manual labor, but it warps easily and requires chemical release agents to prevent sticking.

Fading usually isn't the pigment failing; it's a condition called efflorescence, where calcium salts rise to the surface and leave a white haze over the color. To prevent this, use synthetic iron oxide pigments, ensure your sand is washed and free of silt, and cure the blocks under a plastic sheet to control moisture evaporation.

A Pan Mixer is absolutely mandatory for the base layer of paver blocks. Drum mixers (the tilting barrels you see at normal construction sites) rely on gravity to fold the concrete, which only works if the concrete is very wet. Paver block base concrete must have a very low water to cement ratio to achieve M30+ strength. A pan mixer uses heavy steel blades that forcefully crush and mix this stiff, semi dry concrete.